A long day - along the Bodensee to Lindau


  1. København-Alpirsbach

  2. Alpirsbach

  3. Alpirsbach

  4. Alpirsbach-Tuttlingen

  5. Tuttlingen-Lindau

  6. Lindau-Feldkirch(A)

  7. Feldkirch-Landeck

  8. Landeck-Innsbruck

  9. Innsbruck-Zell am Ziller

  10. Zell am Ziller-Zell am See

  11. Zell am See 

  12. Zell am See-Pffarwerfen 

  13. Pffarwerfen-Tuttmoning

  14. Tuttmoning-Passau

  15. Passau-Linz

  16. Linz-Melk

  17. Melk-Wien

  18. Wien

  19. Wien

  20. Wien

  21. Wien

  22. Wien-København




Letter 5

Monday 25.07.11
I'm awake. This time so I look at my watch. I have to get the flashlight, it's still dark. 5.15. A car passes. I didn't hear any during a night, where it kept on raining. Not violently, just a steady light rain. Now it's stopped. Traffic has started, another car. Sleep from 22 until 5.15, that must be sufficient, but I cannot get up when it's still dark!
In this writing moment it has turned 6.30, now's the time...

I'm not hurrying, I have to have time to enjoy the morning. At the cycle path I turn on my gas cooker. The surface is dry but the grass and the tent are wet, but most of the water run down when I shake it. Just when the water's boiling the sky shines through - but the tent is behind the bushes - unfortunately. But I had foreseen that.

First camp First glimpse of the Donau

I roll out in the morning traffic and am quickly on a bigger road, where I from time to time stop beside the road to let endless rows of cars pass.
I get to Tuttlingen and have my first glimpse of Donau, that has it's origin in Donaueschingen, where Hanna and Walter live. She tried to make me stay for the night there yesterday, but I prefered this shorter, more east going road and needed also to be alone.
I feel an urge for a toilet. The train station seems to be in my direction. There are public toilets downstairs. Cost 50 cents. It's the perfect german style as usual. Like being at home. I take a small supply of paper tissues - for my 50 cent. "Eine Käsespeckstange und ein Cappucino" from the Imbiss and I sit for a while on a bench in the sun at the bus stop enjoying. Then I ask the man with the broomstick about "die rote strecke" in the map. Then one that looks local. "Weiss nicht". Of course: the road worker! And he's capable. First he explains precisely how, but asks then if I'm going to Boden See? Yes, definitely. Then I ought to take another road which is better - "nur meine meinung", as he says.
It's the other way round the mountain, it's not on the map, but I rely on his exact suggestions. And the crossing of the railway can be seen in the map. And the height markings tell about a valley where the cycle path is bound to be.

It's a wonderful valley I'm going up through. I pick handful of raspberries and go on. The road is ascending. Not until I've come through the woods and reached fields and meadows and see the TV tower on top start the real hard work. From time to time more than 15% according to my estimation, but it changes. Down to 8% I should say. Witthöh is 862 a.s.l. and is the highest point in Eurovelo 6, that leads from the Atlantic to the Black Sea. I didn't know. Worth a try some day, maybe?

Witthoh On a clear day you can see the snowcapped Alps


On top I speak to an elderly lady (74 - I didn't ask), no SHE talks, and I understand what she says, and manage to put in a few words from time to time. I find my way down to Emmingen and shop food. Drink/eat the yougurt I missed this morning. And buy an extra for tomorrow to be sure. Meet with a sign for cyclists: Bodensee ->. I could see the nearest ends from up there.
I have to ascend again from Emmingen, then I see Bodensee in the distance and the route branches off the main road and a downhill starts. Km after km the road winds down a forrest along a roaring stream. I'm freewheeling down until now.
Then the narrow wooded valley ends in a more open green one. It's terrific! On and on is goes through deserted green valleys.
I reach more populated districts. In Wahlwies I change map! I have tossed and turned the old one incessant to be able to find the actual part. Now it's all finished. The one with Bodensee has to be found.

I take the wrong direction once more. But I go less than a kilometer on the road. I should have turned in the middle of the 12% down hill. Thought I had to follow the Euroroad. I must learn not to believe - it often leads me astray.

There are branches in all direcctions and no signs here in land of the orchards. I have to find my compas. It must to the right now, we have to follow the valley. I catch up with a cyclist in front of me. He THINKS we heading for Ludwigshafen. I say that I do too and wishes him a good day.

13.05 after 48 km I'm at the see for the first time, now I'll have a cup of cappucino from my own powder and the cake I bought. I stop at a bus shelter - unfortunately. But there's shelter for the gas cooker. Pflaumkuchen in a 4 cm depth where the halved plums lying watching me. Sweet cake with sour plums, that's perfect!

First view over Bodensee An airship above the lake

There's blood in the diary. My wound on the thumb has started bleeding again. It was the other day when I was going to help Hanna to cut the cabbage with a special kitchen tool. And when she took over, she did the same, so I wasn't the only idiot.

I should have washed in the brilliant toilet this morning. A rutine that still has to be incorporated, but now I get the chance in Bodensee, and I don't neglect it. Should I also treat me with the deo?

It has become 15.30 and I find a piece of common stony beach, which is rather rare and eat lunch. First I roll up my trousers and wade in the wateer. The sun is shining, a breeze is blowing against me and life is great. I'm sitting right where the lake's "arms" end and the lakee is seen in its full width. To the right an airship floats and to the left snowy peaks in the Alps. That's the ones the lady at Withöh said could be seen from there on a clear day.
I've had water 3 times today. First at the supermarket in Emmingen, when I asked where, the cassier went out to get it for me herfelf. Next time I asked at a garage, if there was water in the taps outside and I guess there wasn't because I was shown into the garage. And finally at a icecream booth here in Langenhagen. When I asked if there might be a tap at the toilet, she said, I'd have to pay for that. And she found that too much to ask, so she took my bottles and filled them somewhere in the back. Then I felt like having a cone - with three balls. Sitting on a bench in the park with the sun shining it feels warm, but the air was cold during the day. I can make all the way to Lindau today.

Vines... ...all over

20.05 I'm in Pizzaria Portofino in Lindau after 121 km. I've been through most of the town. It all looked very expensive. Here I decided to take a look at the menu, and the prizes were as I'd hoped to find them. 7.20€ for a pizza Napoli (the one with the anchovis) and 2.80€ for half a liter of beer. I'm really enjoying it.

I succeeded finding a spot for the tent in the middle of town so to say. It's an area the size of a football plane, but the grass is high like in a meadow. I put up the tent in a corner behind some bushes behind some rubbish containers.
I can't find the pegs. This morning I forgot to roll the pegs and the sticks inside the tent, and when I realised, I won't roll out the wet tent again. And I thought that I would be able to remember where I put them. Now I know I wouldn't. They're nowhere to be found.
Luckily the tent itself goes up easy. Two pegs in each end can do the job, so I break some branches and in a minute all is ready. When everything is inside I find them - of course.

Just as I'm in my sleepingbag it's as somebody pushes the tent, is anybody there? I lie down listening. There are some faint rustle. Then a fierce blow to the tent, I start up and slowly the true matter is revieled: I put an extra peg in for the string in the end, and it has apparently come loose? Anyway the tent stand still and no sound can be heared. Soon after there is, and I think: what odd time to deliver ones rubbish - and there's no special lights there.

126.85 km
16.4 km/h
44.4 km/h
7:41:36 h