Shakotan Penninsula I


1. CPH 12.08.13

2. Narita - Tone 13.08.13

3. Tone 14.08.13

4. Tone 15.08.13

5. Tone - Oarai 16.08.13

6. Oarai - Tomakomai 17.08.13

7. Tomakomai - Iwamizawa 18.08.13

8. Iwamizawa - Azahikawa 19.08.13

9. Azahikawa - Kamikawa 20.08.13

10.Kamikawa - Nukabira Onsen 21.08.13

11.Nukabira Onsen - Tokachigawa 22.08.13

12.Tokachigawa - Kushiro 23.08.13

13.Kushiro - Shibesha 24.08.13

14.Shibesha - Lake Kussharo 25.08.13

15.Lake Kussharo - Lake Akan 26.08.13

16.Lake Akan - Abashiri 27.08.13

17.Abashiri 28.08.13

18.Abashiri - Sapporo (tog) 29.08.13

19.Sapporo - Otaru 30.08.13

20.Otaru - Kamoenai 31.08.13

21.Kamoenai - Makkari 01.09.13

22.Makkari - Yakumo 02.09.13

23.Yakumo - Hakodate 03.09.13

24.Hakodate - Aomori 04.09.13

25.Aomori - Lake Towada 05.09.13

26.Lake Towada - Lake Tazawa 06.09.13

27.Lake Tazawa - Hanamaki 07.09.13

28.Hanamaki - Tsukidate 08.09.13

29.Tsukidate - Sendai 09.09.13

30.Sendai - Tone 10.09.13

31.Tone 11.09.13

32.Tone 12.09.13

33.Tone - Kurihama 13.09.13

34.Kurihama - Hakone 14.09.13

35.Hakone - Gotemba 15.09.13

36.Gotemba 16.09.13

37.Gotemba - Fujinomiya 17.09.13

38.Fujinomiya - Shizuoka (Kyoto) 18.09.13

39.Kyoto 19.09.13

40.Kyoto 20.09.13

41.Kyoto 21.09.13

42.Kyoto - Nara 22.09.13

43.Nara - Wakayama 23.09.13

44.Wakayama - Higashikagawa 24.09.13

45.Higashikagawa - Takamatsu 25.09.13

46.Takamatsu - Iya Valley 26.09.13

47.Iya Valley 27.09.13

48.Iya Valley - Imabari 28.09.13

49.Imabari - Onomichi 29.09.13

50.Onomichi - Hiroshima 30.09.13

51.Hiroshima 01.10.13

52.Hiroshima - Takayama (tog) 02.10.13

53.Takayama 03.10.13

54.Takayama - Matsumoto 04.10.13

55.Matsumoto - Hakuba 05.10.13

56.Hakuba - Nagano 06.10.13

57.Nagano - Tone 07.10.13

58.Tone 08.10.13

59.Tone - Narita 09.10.13

60. Narita - CPH 10.10.13



Letter 20


Saturday 31.08.13     98 km


This hostel Marinoki is the casual style, as most of the hostels here in the east. It tends to be a bit like things were in the sixtees. This one is really a mess of all and everything.


                         Welcome to Hostel Morinoki

I ordered breakfast. There's "nato", these fermented soyabeans (to say it polite). And something that looks like thick brown greavy and should be eaten by spoon. Is it japanese carry soup? It tastes like carry. I've got used to these tastes in morning long ago.

It's hard to figure out quickly who belongs to the house and who doesn't, except we foreigners. There's a german girl and I. She has studied linguistics and speak japanese. I'm always impressed when europeans have been able to learn languages like
chinese or japanese.

Ready to go now 8.30am. Shakotan penninsula awaits me. I get to Yoici where road 5 continues to the south and I continue straight, out to Shakotan penninsula. The tunnels come as pearls on a string, almost all of them fine for cycklists. From time to time strange rock formations along the coast.

                            What does this look like?

At some time the road goes up into the country. For so long that I get nervous I've taken the direction, but then comes the split up, where the small road will go close  to the coast, while the other stays inside the country. The wheather has been grey all day. I thought I should decline after the split up, but the road inclines more than ever. But the descent comes eventually and when I'm back  at the ocean a light drizzle starts. But it never gets worse. There is scattered housing but not many people. It looks like "out of the season". The traffic is now scarse. It's mainly japanese tourists. Besides the bad wheather it's lovely here at the Japanese Sea,  which is calm today. According to all the efforts to secure the coastline it must be violent sometimes.

From time to time rocks rise in the sea looking like sinking ships. There are tunnels like grass. Most of them short.

Then I reach Cape Komui, the most western point at the penninsula. Unfortunately I have to go left for 1,3 km on a road that crosses the mountain - and it's steep. They've been so kind to announce how much: 9%. I have two breaks on my way. I guess the steepest at Lake Mashu must have been 10%. It confining to know that stuff like that isn't impossible. Luckily it's less steep on the other side, where I have to go up again. This is the goal for the tourists here in the penninsula, judged by the size of the parking lot and there are quite a number of cars. You have to follow a path to get all the way and it's crowded. The german girl had been here and couldn't get ALL the way. I just go for the view point.

                                      Cape Kamui

I haven't looked in the map all day cause the road has more or less followed the coastline. Now I go for Kamoemei that's still 20 km away. Tunnel after tunnel shows up. Two of which are 2,5 km. I get through the first without meeting anyone or get overtaken.

In Kamomei ther is a camp site 1 km up a road. But I don't feel like putting up the tent, so in a small supermarket I shop dinner and ask for a hotel. There are very nice, the lady calls and the second seems to have a room. But no dinner or breakfast. It's allright with me. The man follows me there and here I am, finding out that I'm not only half the way around but rather
three forth. I've also done 98 km. That's a good feeling.

This hotel is a bit different from the others. I didn't pay attention to a difference in level on the floor here on the first floor where my room is. Then I was taught to put my slippers there and noy outside the door as I've been used to. And the door is a sliding door and cannot be locked.

Actually are there sliding doors in two of the walls and when I looked around for the matress and the bed linen and push a door aside I looked right into the next room!! There was nobody there.