Green hell...


1. CPH 12.08.13

2. Narita - Tone 13.08.13

3. Tone 14.08.13

4. Tone 15.08.13

5. Tone - Oarai 16.08.13

6. Oarai - Tomakomai 17.08.13

7. Tomakomai - Iwamizawa 18.08.13

8. Iwamizawa - Azahikawa 19.08.13

9. Azahikawa - Kamikawa 20.08.13

10.Kamikawa - Nukabira Onsen 21.08.13

11.Nukabira Onsen - Tokachigawa 22.08.13

12.Tokachigawa - Kushiro 23.08.13

13.Kushiro - Shibesha 24.08.13

14.Shibesha - Lake Kussharo 25.08.13

15.Lake Kussharo - Lake Akan 26.08.13

16.Lake Akan - Abashiri 27.08.13

17.Abashiri 28.08.13

18.Abashiri - Sapporo (tog) 29.08.13

19.Sapporo - Otaru 30.08.13

20.Otaru - Kamoenai 31.08.13

21.Kamoenai - Makkari 01.09.13

22.Makkari - Yakumo 02.09.13

23.Yakumo - Hakodate 03.09.13

24.Hakodate - Aomori 04.09.13

25.Aomori - Lake Towada 05.09.13

26.Lake Towada - Lake Tazawa 06.09.13

27.Lake Tazawa - Hanamaki 07.09.13

28.Hanamaki - Tsukidate 08.09.13

29.Tsukidate - Sendai 09.09.13

30.Sendai - Tone 10.09.13

31.Tone 11.09.13

32.Tone 12.09.13

33.Tone - Kurihama 13.09.13

34.Kurihama - Hakone 14.09.13

35.Hakone - Gotemba 15.09.13

36.Gotemba 16.09.13

37.Gotemba - Fujinomiya 17.09.13

38.Fujinomiya - Shizuoka (Kyoto) 18.09.13

39.Kyoto 19.09.13

40.Kyoto 20.09.13

41.Kyoto 21.09.13

42.Kyoto - Nara 22.09.13

43.Nara - Wakayama 23.09.13

44.Wakayama - Higashikagawa 24.09.13

45.Higashikagawa - Takamatsu 25.09.13

46.Takamatsu - Iya Valley 26.09.13

47.Iya Valley 27.09.13

48.Iya Valley - Imabari 28.09.13

49.Imabari - Onomichi 29.09.13

50.Onomichi - Hiroshima 30.09.13

51.Hiroshima 01.10.13

52.Hiroshima - Takayama (tog) 02.10.13

53.Takayama 03.10.13

54.Takayama - Matsumoto 04.10.13

55.Matsumoto - Hakuba 05.10.13

56.Hakuba - Nagano 06.10.13

57.Nagano - Tone 07.10.13

58.Tone 08.10.13

59.Tone - Narita 09.10.13

60. Narita - CPH 10.10.13



Letter 25


Thursday 05.09.13      56 km


Sometimes things are tied together in a long row of incidents that fit together. But often it only takes one one missing part to make it all fall apart. That's how things happen when I've landed in Aomori. I find easily downtown and the station. Get the most exact informations that I've ever had during my trip. The lady prints out 3 maps and put them together with tape, to show me how to get to Moya Kogen Youth Hostel, which I've found in Lonely Planet and know is quite a bit out of town. I'm also
instructed how to find a bicycle shop where I hope to get a new computer.

I find the shop and a young japanese knowing about bicycles finds out, that he thinks he has just the kit-set I need, so I don't have to change the computer itself. And he checks numbers and types and look things up at the internet and in catalogs. Added some gestures we speak easily in each our language, and he manage to get the set out of a huge bunddle and I can go on....

Now I need to buy food for the evening and the morning, as there'll probably will be nothing to buy around the hostel. In a road leading to the 103, is a Lawson and I shop there in 2 min. And then it's just full speed ahead, it's 5.30pm and maybe I ought to be there before 6pm?

The 103 starts to incline up through the woods, so I'm soon dripping from sweat. End up at where it's supposed to be. But where is it? Damn! I stop a car from a smaller road. Yes, the man knows this place. Smiling he starts to haul out english words and tells that it was there he learned to speak english a long time ago. It's just around somewhere. I go back to the last poster and when I see it from the other side, the logo is there: IYH. Maybe I can get a discount with my card?

The outer door is open, but hte inner is locked and it's dark everywhere. Closed. Damn! In vain I try to call a number on the poster with the help of a lady opposite, but nobody answers.

There's a bit of grass beside the house and I put up my tent there. The mosqitoes are at my over heated body in no time. Certain things are repeated, but within long I'm secure. I eat my dinner and lie down on the sleeping bag to cool down.
I don't feel I've slept, but when I look at my watch it's after midnight. And then the rain starts! It must be that "hard rain" I heard about yesterday that has been delayed. There are some harsh wind blows but the tent is shielded by the house.

                               The tent in the morning

This morning the rain has ceased and I pack up the wet tent and leave without breakfast. When I reach the front of the house there's a car there. I avoid stepping in to present myself.

The road inclines km after km. I've named it "The green hell". Green everywhere. A fertility beyond borders, that eats you up totally. No overview, no feeling of where you are concerning the outside world. At the end I reach a plateau, where I find a place to eat breakfast.

On it goes through another green hell, but I think I'm past the worst now, where I sit shielded in a waiting room in a ski resort. Only onre thing is actually missing, but don't worry, it'll come. Quiet and easy I move up in the clouds - and it rains. And as if that wasn't enough, the fog/clouds pack up all in a grey mist. On top of all one hook on my long rubberband jumps off and disappears into the woods. That's the one that keeps the backpack in place at my rear. I have to tie it in one side.

I reach a spa. I can smell the sulphur in a long distance. There, in this deserted area, are people. Upwards it goes. Suddenly a sign over the road: Kasamatsu Pass 1040 m. So I dragged it all 1 km up in the air since yesterday. It felt like that, really!

                           Now it has to go downwards

Then comes the descent, long straight parts changing with hairpin turns. The brakes are working. I reach under the clouds and in the end there is the sun!!! Now I'm at an Onsen (Spa) with a nice fountain in front of me.

On it goes downwards. It's so easy that I end up going too far. Luckily there's a map at the road, and according to that I'm going along a river that flows to the sea. I have to go 3 km back. On the way the most peculiar happens: The meter starts working again. Now I've got the kit-set. I go for the caldera lake: Towada.

I go up through a gorge with the water bubbling in the other direction. Sometimes steep rocks to one side sometimes to both. There's a path along the river. This is a tourist spot. Waterfalls of different types come rushing down from the sides. From quiet water flowing down steep rocks to the more flamboyant Kumoi Falls where the water in three steps fall down 20 m. This gorge is the clou of the trip until now..


                                           From the gorge with all the waterfalls....

In the end after 14 km like a revelation the gorge ends in the lake from where the water comes, and which I go along all the way down to a town beginning with Y... where I pass a poster saying: Backpackers Hostel" and where I've got a bed for 2.000 Y, but as I'm the only one, it's as good as a hotel.

The old man who looks after the place, can say things like "Just a minute", but that's about it. He said it when I wanted a shower. I think he had to lit the gas water heater. And they have wi-fi. On the other hand there are no convinient stores. Yougurt and bread I couldn't find. Have to be some  place at 6pm. The tent is drying outside, I'd better pack it down before I leave - it was almost dry.

The restaurant has no pictures of the dishes. I ordered something, which is fish with rice (as far as I understand). We'll see...

I feel quite stuffed. It couldn't have been much better. Rice and breaded fish - with no bones. Together with miso soup, 3 small fishes prepared to be eaten with head and all - a little sweetish. Some red sliced ginger and a vegetable in a dressing and slices of a root that is also prepared in some way. I'm the only customer. They're only open because the girl telephoned from the other restaurant which closed at 3pm. I'm glad I could order breakfast in my hostel.