A camp at the end of the world


1. CPH 12.08.13

2. Narita - Tone 13.08.13

3. Tone 14.08.13

4. Tone 15.08.13

5. Tone - Oarai 16.08.13

6. Oarai - Tomakomai 17.08.13

7. Tomakomai - Iwamizawa 18.08.13

8. Iwamizawa - Azahikawa 19.08.13

9. Azahikawa - Kamikawa 20.08.13

10.Kamikawa - Nukabira Onsen 21.08.13

11.Nukabira Onsen - Tokachigawa 22.08.13

12.Tokachigawa - Kushiro 23.08.13

13.Kushiro - Shibesha 24.08.13

14.Shibesha - Lake Kussharo 25.08.13

15.Lake Kussharo - Lake Akan 26.08.13

16.Lake Akan - Abashiri 27.08.13

17.Abashiri 28.08.13

18.Abashiri - Sapporo (tog) 29.08.13

19.Sapporo - Otaru 30.08.13

20.Otaru - Kamoenai 31.08.13

21.Kamoenai - Makkari 01.09.13

22.Makkari - Yakumo 02.09.13

23.Yakumo - Hakodate 03.09.13

24.Hakodate - Aomori 04.09.13

25.Aomori - Lake Towada 05.09.13

26.Lake Towada - Lake Tazawa 06.09.13

27.Lake Tazawa - Hanamaki 07.09.13

28.Hanamaki - Tsukidate 08.09.13

29.Tsukidate - Sendai 09.09.13

30.Sendai - Tone 10.09.13

31.Tone 11.09.13

32.Tone 12.09.13

33.Tone - Kurihama 13.09.13

34.Kurihama - Hakone 14.09.13

35.Hakone - Gotemba 15.09.13

36.Gotemba 16.09.13

37.Gotemba - Fujinomiya 17.09.13

38.Fujinomiya - Shizuoka (Kyoto) 18.09.13

39.Kyoto 19.09.13

40.Kyoto 20.09.13

41.Kyoto 21.09.13

42.Kyoto - Nara 22.09.13

43.Nara - Wakayama 23.09.13

44.Wakayama - Higashikagawa 24.09.13

45.Higashikagawa - Takamatsu 25.09.13

46.Takamatsu - Iya Valley 26.09.13

47.Iya Valley 27.09.13

48.Iya Valley - Imabari 28.09.13

49.Imabari - Onomichi 29.09.13

50.Onomichi - Hiroshima 30.09.13

51.Hiroshima 01.10.13

52.Hiroshima - Takayama (tog) 02.10.13

53.Takayama 03.10.13

54.Takayama - Matsumoto 04.10.13

55.Matsumoto - Hakuba 05.10.13

56.Hakuba - Nagano 06.10.13

57.Nagano - Tone 07.10.13

58.Tone 08.10.13

59.Tone - Narita 09.10.13

60. Narita - CPH 10.10.13


Letter 46


Thursday 26.09.13     98,97 km


I was in the middle of the last chapter in "Kafka on the Shore" (That's the correct title I now know), when the light was turned off, and there's no reading spots here as there use to be. So as the light had come on when I awoke, I finished it.

The scene of the book is modern. The boy runs away from home and take the night bus to Takamatsu. Hoshino, as is the name of one of the other characters, is a truck driver and wears a ponytail and a Chunity Dragons cap (baseball team). There's reference to Indiana Jones a.s.o. but never the less also demons, or whatever they are, enter the stage, in different shapes...

I set off in the morning traffic. All the schoolchildren in their school uniforms and all the map men in their dark trousers and white shirts are on their way. Here in Takamatsu they've tried to eliminate some of the waiting time for the cyclists. At 3 of the big crossings you can go under the road. You're ment to get off and walk the bike and people obey this. But for me and my load
it brings on the sweat when I have to push the bike up.

Road 32 is a lovely road. Nice and new. It should be fairly flat for the first part and that's true. It's not until I reach Kotohira that something is happening. First a minor pass, where I race down afterwards and then comes another: 417 m and then down in the east-west valley where the expressway runs. Here's a town, Iwada, which is the last possible shopping place. I can't bring pre-prepared dishes for so long, so it has to be: bread, bananas, some tins of fish, a big yogurt and a glass of orange marmelade.

After Iwada the Route 32 turns off to the left and I follow it until after Oboke/Keboke, where Route 45 should lead me to the Iva valley.

I idiot haven't looked carefully enough in the map. I could have gone all the way up the Iva valley, now I have to cross a pass. I don't realize it until the road for several km's keeps on inclining. And it's 10% and more on several parts. 5 km/h.

It turn out to be a hard afternoon, but I do get up there and through the tunnel and down again on the other side. And then suddenly I'm at the "vine bridge", and it really is an attraction even it's reinforced with wires.

                      First meeting with the vine bridge.... ...and the Biwa-no-taki

And a moment later I'm at the waterfall Biwa-no-taki, that splash 50 m's down and the camp site is only 600 m's ahead....

I get down there by a steep narrow winding trail. Up at the road it said it was only for people with  a reservation. It looks closed, but as I knock gently a man turns up talking about reservation... Stop please. I can see there's nobody there. Doesn't he want the extra money?

And he will of course, especially when it's two nights. There is one already. The car that's parked it's the owners but a lady from - I think he tried to say Switzerland. She must stay in a cottage because there are no tents.

So here I am in the light of my head light, writing, and the sound of the river down below. It's almost at the end of the world, the road doesn't go any further on this side of the river.