Through the wilderness


1. CPH 12.08.13

2. Narita - Tone 13.08.13

3. Tone 14.08.13

4. Tone 15.08.13

5. Tone - Oarai 16.08.13

6. Oarai - Tomakomai 17.08.13

7. Tomakomai - Iwamizawa 18.08.13

8. Iwamizawa - Azahikawa 19.08.13

9. Azahikawa - Kamikawa 20.08.13

10.Kamikawa - Nukabira Onsen 21.08.13

11.Nukabira Onsen - Tokachigawa 22.08.13

12.Tokachigawa - Kushiro 23.08.13

13.Kushiro - Shibesha 24.08.13

14.Shibesha - Lake Kussharo 25.08.13

15.Lake Kussharo - Lake Akan 26.08.13

16.Lake Akan - Abashiri 27.08.13

17.Abashiri 28.08.13

18.Abashiri - Sapporo (tog) 29.08.13

19.Sapporo - Otaru 30.08.13

20.Otaru - Kamoenai 31.08.13

21.Kamoenai - Makkari 01.09.13

22.Makkari - Yakumo 02.09.13

23.Yakumo - Hakodate 03.09.13

24.Hakodate - Aomori 04.09.13

25.Aomori - Lake Towada 05.09.13

26.Lake Towada - Lake Tazawa 06.09.13

27.Lake Tazawa - Hanamaki 07.09.13

28.Hanamaki - Tsukidate 08.09.13

29.Tsukidate - Sendai 09.09.13

30.Sendai - Tone 10.09.13

31.Tone 11.09.13

32.Tone 12.09.13

33.Tone - Kurihama 13.09.13

34.Kurihama - Hakone 14.09.13

35.Hakone - Gotemba 15.09.13

36.Gotemba 16.09.13

37.Gotemba - Fujinomiya 17.09.13

38.Fujinomiya - Shizuoka (Kyoto) 18.09.13

39.Kyoto 19.09.13

40.Kyoto 20.09.13

41.Kyoto 21.09.13

42.Kyoto - Nara 22.09.13

43.Nara - Wakayama 23.09.13

44.Wakayama - Higashikagawa 24.09.13

45.Higashikagawa - Takamatsu 25.09.13

46.Takamatsu - Iya Valley 26.09.13

47.Iya Valley 27.09.13

48.Iya Valley - Imabari 28.09.13

49.Imabari - Onomichi 29.09.13

50.Onomichi - Hiroshima 30.09.13

51.Hiroshima 01.10.13

52.Hiroshima - Takayama (tog) 02.10.13

53.Takayama 03.10.13

54.Takayama - Matsumoto 04.10.13

55.Matsumoto - Hakuba 05.10.13

56.Hakuba - Nagano 06.10.13

57.Nagano - Tone 07.10.13

58.Tone 08.10.13

59.Tone - Narita 09.10.13

60. Narita - CPH 10.10.13


Letter 26


Friday 06.09.13     124,72 km


I now have a new hook for my long rubberband. It was the old man. More efficient than the elegant trial I started.

     With a bit of wire can achive miracles

You get Hakka Pass thrown right into your face, the moment you leave the lakeside. But fine with me. Let's get over. The hairpins are on the mountain towards to lake, so there's a view!

                               A last look at the lake

It's only 200 m at the most you have to elevate to get to Hakka Pass. But it's many hundred meters you go down on the other side. Yasumiya was after all 450 m a.s.l. It's a thrilling descent where I catch up with the cars in front of me! They're maybe excused for having a bus in front.

Down and down it goes and end with houses and agriculture. This valley joins the north-south going where the expressway has it's lanes. Here I'm going south till after Kazuno.

When the diversion comes, there's a km statement: Lake Tazawako - 75 km. I've almost done 50 till now. That's not doable. Even there was a hostel there.

Now I enter new valleys heading for a pass, that I'm certain. But there should be an Auto Camp Park, as they call it. I get up there. It's closed. There's staff and a bus, but....

Now I've forced the pedals around for another 11 km upwards. As the average speed is 6 km/h it must have taken almost 2 hours. Now I'm up or almost at least. Have to find a place to camp. The altimeter says 900 m, there will come a lake, so....

My thoughts about the area are wrong. A parking lot where people apparently camp in their cars. More of them are put on logs. Why, I don't know. Maybe so the bears don't use them for rollerskating? There's a warning about bears anyway. This is not where I'll put up my tent. And there's no grass.

Within short it goes down full speed ahead. It's the wildest downhill, I've encountered untill now. The road winds from one mountainside to the other and to a third. Every other second it goes through tunnels. Not tunnels through the mountain that are more or less straight, but such tunnels you make to keep the road free from snow or water. With natural light through the ceiling. Down and down. There's no civilisation. Pure wilderness with trees I don't remember having seen before.

Unfortunately I haven't time to enjoy it fully. The plan right now is to get to civilized areas and put up the tent before it gets dark.
I arrive at the lake I told about, and it shows to be a lake formed by a dam further ahead. One time I cross it on a bridge, but the hotel or whatever it is, is locked.

                     I didn't have time to enjoy much

I close up to 100 km and the distance to Towada shrink, but the darkness also closes in fast. I decide to go on darkness or no darkness. I have to get to Towada, there's got to be a hotel. It's getting too dark now to put up the tent. So I work hard and get closer...and closer...

At last. A gas station. Civilisation. The man asks if a camp site will do? Yes, fine. He finds a map and draws a line. That's how I should go. It's down at the lake. It's dark, but there are scattered street lamps. I think I follow the instructions, but get back to the main road further ahead without knowing if I saw a lake or not.


There's a Lawson there. And the girl do speak a little english - and whats more - she knows how to draw a map with traffic lights and other important things. I realize soon where I should have continued straight ahead instead of turning. But beside the camp site she adds a hotel...and then she remembers the Youth Hostel. That's the one I'd decided for long ago, but I gave up because I thought it was at the north side of the lake.

And against all odds it's open and I've got my own room japanese style. I had to eat a bit first, but then down to the shower, where I find out they have their own hot spring - onsen. So I've been in the hot water. You're ready to lie down afterwards, but I have my diary to write....