In the outskirts of Kyoto


1. CPH 12.08.13

2. Narita - Tone 13.08.13

3. Tone 14.08.13

4. Tone 15.08.13

5. Tone - Oarai 16.08.13

6. Oarai - Tomakomai 17.08.13

7. Tomakomai - Iwamizawa 18.08.13

8. Iwamizawa - Azahikawa 19.08.13

9. Azahikawa - Kamikawa 20.08.13

10.Kamikawa - Nukabira Onsen 21.08.13

11.Nukabira Onsen - Tokachigawa 22.08.13

12.Tokachigawa - Kushiro 23.08.13

13.Kushiro - Shibesha 24.08.13

14.Shibesha - Lake Kussharo 25.08.13

15.Lake Kussharo - Lake Akan 26.08.13

16.Lake Akan - Abashiri 27.08.13

17.Abashiri 28.08.13

18.Abashiri - Sapporo (tog) 29.08.13

19.Sapporo - Otaru 30.08.13

20.Otaru - Kamoenai 31.08.13

21.Kamoenai - Makkari 01.09.13

22.Makkari - Yakumo 02.09.13

23.Yakumo - Hakodate 03.09.13

24.Hakodate - Aomori 04.09.13

25.Aomori - Lake Towada 05.09.13

26.Lake Towada - Lake Tazawa 06.09.13

27.Lake Tazawa - Hanamaki 07.09.13

28.Hanamaki - Tsukidate 08.09.13

29.Tsukidate - Sendai 09.09.13

30.Sendai - Tone 10.09.13

31.Tone 11.09.13

32.Tone 12.09.13

33.Tone - Kurihama 13.09.13

34.Kurihama - Hakone 14.09.13

35.Hakone - Gotemba 15.09.13

36.Gotemba 16.09.13

37.Gotemba - Fujinomiya 17.09.13

38.Fujinomiya - Shizuoka (Kyoto) 18.09.13

39.Kyoto 19.09.13

40.Kyoto 20.09.13

41.Kyoto 21.09.13

42.Kyoto - Nara 22.09.13

43.Nara - Wakayama 23.09.13

44.Wakayama - Higashikagawa 24.09.13

45.Higashikagawa - Takamatsu 25.09.13

46.Takamatsu - Iya Valley 26.09.13

47.Iya Valley 27.09.13

48.Iya Valley - Imabari 28.09.13

49.Imabari - Onomichi 29.09.13

50.Onomichi - Hiroshima 30.09.13

51.Hiroshima 01.10.13

52.Hiroshima - Takayama (tog) 02.10.13

53.Takayama 03.10.13

54.Takayama - Matsumoto 04.10.13

55.Matsumoto - Hakuba 05.10.13

56.Hakuba - Nagano 06.10.13

57.Nagano - Tone 07.10.13

58.Tone 08.10.13

59.Tone - Narita 09.10.13

60. Narita - CPH 10.10.13


Letter 40


Friday 20.09.13      64,69 km


One of my roommates came in late last night making noise. But this morning everybody sleep sound, when I get up at 6.30am.

Yesterday I found some marmelade, which wasn't imported and cost a fortune. So this morning I have roasted toast with marmelade, a yougurt and grape juice. I've stopped drinking beer with the dinner - for the time being.

There's no point in waiting, so I set off for Arashiyama, a "must see" according to the guide books. I don't take the strict road, but find it easily even it's far. To arrive on bicycle is a bit special for I don't know where to look for "The path of Bamboo Grove". But signs start coming up and within short I walk up the path. Meet a local or two.

Understand? The japanese version of "chinglish"

When I return 3 quarters of an hour later the path is overcrowded. Also the taxis go up there. And rickshaws. And the whole town including the main street is completely changed. Now noone doubts this is a "must see".
But I get poisoned by temples. There are at least 30 scattered over the area. All with an entrance fee of 3-400 Y. I'd like to know about the japanese relation to religion and what's it's about, but you don't learn that here. So I just take some photos.

The muddy waters and Arashiyama in the background

This is where the big river runs from the mountains. The water is still muddy from the rain from the typhoon. They are also doing repairs along the river and branches and trees are still clinging to the bridge. But the real flooding must have been further down.

Then I continue to a village up in the mountains to the north, Kuhara. It's a long ride. I pass a part of Kyoto University up here. There are parked hundreds of motorbikes and scooters. It's at the lunch break so they hurry up and down the road.

Hundreds - just count for self

Tourists, one westener, tells I'm there in Kuhara. There's a temple, whereb I stand and take a  photo. The town itself is nicely situated along the road that winds upwards. I go on with an idea that there must be a pass and that I will be able to follow another river back. But I give up and a look in Lonely Planet shows that that would have made me disappear in the mountains outside of all maps. But it's lovely here with the sound of the river and now it goes down.

One temple will have to do...

Out here there are no signs telling the direction to Kyoto. And there are green mountains everywhere. But the sun is a good help for directions and I have a good sense of where the city must be. I pass through a tunnel and end up along one of the main rivers. From here there's no doubt.

The meter ends up at more than 60 km. No wonder I feel a need for a shower.

The rest of the afternoon I wash and drink tea. And now I have all by myself made a call from a payohone and booked a night in Nara on sunday. The area code was in Lonely Planet, the manager knew. And then I made it for the station to find a phone. The first guesthouse was fully booked, but I succeeded at the next one.
It's only tourist magnets as Kyoto, Nara and Hiroshima, where Lonely Planet can be used for booking.