[BACK] [NEXT]
English Version 29
Wednesday 30.04.08
Ningqiang
I’ve entered what the Americans called ”the more hilly area”. It fits
with what ever topography the map reveals too. Small steep climbs and
quick descents. It’s a beautiful landscape. Small gorges and broader
valleys with fields. The road and the railway meet from time to time –
and depart. It’s hot again, 25-28 degrees I’d think. In a village is the
market I’ve been waiting for. My right arm needs protection. The Chinese
sun cream factor 12 isn’t enough for a whole day in the sun.
 |
 |
| It's the first of mai tomorrow | Ginger, ginger, ginger... |
I enter the village street with my bike, there’s not much space, it’s
a market after all. I’m looked at as usual, but there’s a nice feeling,
people are engaged in their own shopping too. I’m “talking” with some
Chinese. I tell about my problem with the sun. Oh, then you have to go
there. It’s the local pharmacist. I show them my sun cream and that it’s
“no good”. They take it inside, but no, such things they don’t have.
I find a white t-shirt with long sleeves and pays much too much. He
starts on 35 and without thinking I say 25, because that’s what I’m
willing to give – and I need it NOW. Done – so that was too much. But
now he gains a bit because this market was a nice experience.
I’ve started feeling accustomed the local conditions. Chinese tyres,
Chinese t-shirts of different kinds and my wonderful Chinese fashion
trousers which I fancy so much.
There’s not much traffic, most people want to save a couple of hundreds
of kilometres and all the extra hours it would be not to take the
highway, so better pay what it costs?
 |
 |
| Need tools for the harvest? | Landscape with cyclist |
For all reasons the distance to Chengdu are shown with such big
differences, that it can’t just be because of their lack of knowledge in
counting and measuring.
In a beautiful gorge I stop and enjoy the murmur of the river. On the
other side of the road, there’s a spot where my tent could stand. It’s
too close to to road, but it’s the first time I’ve seen a potential
campsite.
It’s 14.30 o’clock and I’ve only done 60 km, but it’s due to the terrain.
At the end of the gorge there seems to be a steeper climb – until I hear
a roaring truck high above me. So, THAT’S what ahead of me. When I first
look at the altimeter it says 950 m. The sweat is dripping already. It’s
hot and there is NO shadow.
I “dance” the last piece up – I think – because there’s a flat piece
with some houses, but sounds from higher altitude tell that it’s not
over yet. 1100 m.
I’m as high as the surrounding mountaintops, not only the two I have to
pass through. One last 6 on the scale and here I stand in 1195 m’s
altitude.
Then comes a fine descent, which ends in the target town Ningqiang.
I end up at Han Yuan Hotel on the other side of the river. It’s
expensive but probably not so expensive as the glass palace I passed on
the first side. And there should be a lüguan 8 km ahead, but I want
internet tonight.
It’s as if I attract more attention here on the other side of the river
than ever before.
When I walk down a modern street I end up in what’s left of the old
Ningqiang. The street continues, it’s just the houses that change. New
buildings with apartments close to both sides, but in the middle is this
“ancient-citystreet” still there – until now. The houses seem made out
of what was available at the time, but most are made of bricks with tile
roofs and wooden facades. There are a lot of shops in between. The usual
TV’s are turned on inside rooms with newspaper covered walls. The ridge
of the roofs is waving a bit and the walls are sometimes not
perpendicular, but there’s a nice feeling here.
I wonder if anything is done to keep it.
On my way back I enter the supermarket. Again I feel like an exhibit. At
one time 8-9 children have gathered and together they are brave enough
to surround me and ask: How are you? and What’s your name? And when I
later reply: Ni jiao shenme mingzi? (what’s your name?) They cheer like
at a football match. Ohhh, he speaks Chinese. Unbelievable. Luckily
they’re testing their English, so I keep the illusion, that I speak
Chinese.
They don’t think so here at the hotel. But I think that the girl in the
reception should be able to speak just 5 English words, when you think
of how much of the hotel material is actually in English too.
But here’s never been a foreigner before. Who should come here? Except a
guy on bicycle.
88.61 km
14.88 km/t
5:57:10 tim
41.2 km/t