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English Version 6
Monday 07.04.08
12.00 noon
This morning I succeeded taking a shower. The heater didn’t seem to come
alive, but a closer examination of the thing revealed a lump on the cord
and a red thing looking like a switch. After a press it started and
there was nothing to do but to wait. There was a meter, but only with
marks. Yesterday when I was shown to my room she gave me something which
ought to be a towel. It was the same size as two face flannels and so
thin that it seemed like a joke. I’ve brought my own, which isn’t much
bigger, but much thicker. It was a bit wet, but you can do with little
if necessary.
The village showed to have a name: Loucun, and it was on my “real” map
and was busy this morning. Traffic jam. As salesmen was sitting with
their goods cars, bicycles, three wheelers tried to pass each other and
with the usual Chinese wish to be first it ended up wrong time after
time. But when all has come to a halt, people are clever solving the
situation. But it takes time…
Back on the road and back up the pass. On my way up rocks have been
placed in my lane. I guess it’s a “warning” and that yesterdays truck is
still up there. Struggle ahead. The climb is 9 on my scale. That means I
can go a speed of 9 km/h. Some time later I lower to 8. The smaller the
figure the steeper the climb. Then more rocks appear on the road. Does
that mean I’m up? The answer is yes, but the truck is gone. They
probably forgot the rocks?
The mountains in Shidu valley almost disappears in the mist
 |
 |
| Mountains and mist going up the river | Like a hundred years ago |
I find the right road and within long I realize the meaning of Guilin
of Beijing as Shidu sometimes is called. The mountains looking a little
like those in Guilin (sugarloaf mountains – which I’ve only seen in
pictures) arise first at one side then at the other. It remind me of
Gorges de Ardeche in South of France. But the peaks are sharp and rugged.
Most of it disappears in the mist, which, even it’s less than in the
village, is lying all over the valley. On the other hand it all comes
out a little more ghostly.
I decide to have a meal at a restaurant for lunch. It’s like jumping to
the unknown. Yesterday there were even pictures on the menu, even they
gave me something else. Now there’s nothing to recognize except the
prizes. I choose something for 18 RMB. It happens to be exquisit. Small
lumps of pork and onion tops and chilli in a delicate sauce and two
bowls of rice. Besides green tea.
The area tells about development in China. For a start a big holiday
centre has been made in the valley, with lots of apartments. If they’re
for sale or rent isn’t to say, but if I have to guess, I’d say sale. And
then it goes on with restaurant after restaurant….
6.50 p.m.
Once more I’ve found a place to stay for the night. It was a hard job.
After Shidu the valley continued forever and that was good cause the
road was fine and the landscape as beautiful as you could wish. Father
up the river it was less tourist like. At last after having passed some
villages I never saw a name on the challenge came: a t-road and a sign
with only Chinese characters and some distances. None of them seemed to
fit my map.
After having studied the map I decide that whether I am at one spot or
the other I have to go right, so that I do. If I’m at the first spot
G108 is due to come quickly, so I ask. If there’s anything I know in
Chinese it’s the numbers. Yes that should be right – and it is. Hurra! I
don’t think I should leave numbered main roads from now on.
The joy is changed to hard work. It’s not a surprise, the road on the
map makes some small turns and that usually means: pass ahead.
I struggle up. At the top there’s a tunnel, which fortunately goes
straight, so the end can be seen. There are no lights inside, but it’s
only 4-500 m so no problem. I rush down the other side to a village
where I buy some water. The girl speaks a little English. I try to ask
for staying the night. She points upwards – on the roof? In the next
village? She doesn’t know but it should be 15 km.
I decide to continue, Would be nice if I could reach 100 km today.
A new pass. A new struggle. Another tunnel of the same kind, but this
time I’m not led all the way to the village at the other side. The
railway divides the village, it has just left its tunnel. You can’t get
to the village on road from this side. And it looks small.
So once more. Up again. I’m roasted. Nearly dead. I have to have
something to drink and some bisquits, I bought during the day. A last
fight and up I go. Have to rest just before the top. Then I rush down
again. The village looks good. There must be a place for the night. I
ask with the universal gesture. Yes, lüguan, it’s right there. If only
they said something about right or left, but they don’t. A lot of words
and I can just look at the sign!! But I’m only a silly fool who doesn’t
understand a clue, so I pass it. They come and lead me there. Thank you.
Just in time.
The place looks humble. And it certainly is. I can have a bed upstairs
in a 3-bed-room for 20 RMB. That’s reasonable, isn’t it? There are no
one in the other rooms - until now?
A toilet, is there a toilet? Yes, there is. I decline to see it. I’m
sure how it is. And unfortunately the need for using it is increasing.
I have something to eat first. I point at something and get – dogs food.
I don’t know from which animal, but it can’t be intended for human
beings. The dish looks delicious: Meat and tops of onions in some sauce
with rice. But the meat is all gristle and fat. It’s disgusting, but
I’ve done more than 100 km, so I eat the best of it. When I want to pay
it’s 40 for a room for 20 a dish for 13 and a bottle of water for 2 at
the most. Maybe the rice costs too, but 3? At the nice restaurant
earlier it was only 2.
She gets her 40 RMB, I just want to go upstairs to write all this.
There’s TV with all the Chinese channels as usual.
The toilet conditions are non existing. A hole in the ground, two
concrete blocks to put your feet on. The toilet paper you fasten in
cracks in the wall. But I have to use it. There are no washing
facilities. They only have water in the kitchen.
105.27 km
14,99 km/t
7:01:12 tim
49,2 km/t