[BACK] [NEXT]
English Version 7
Thursday 08.04.08
01.00 p.m.
I decide to go on
immediately without breakfast. I don’t want to eat more here. I have 3
bananas, 1 cookie and some sweet and half sweet.
The weather is the usual mist. It rains a little from time to time.
AT last I’ve come to a valley, which seems to continue for some time.
And we’re in the country, where the days go by, like they’ve probably
done for the last 100 years. The peasant is ploughing with his donkey,
or is it a meagre horse? He uses his own weight to keep the plough down.
At the road are grinding mills to be moved by hand used for grinding
millet. Once10 workers with harnesses are carrying a concrete pole. It
looks impressive. But in the long run maybe not that efficient? AT
another spot 3 workers shovel coal in a coal mill. There’re almost
hidden in coal dust, but no one has a mask or similar. Later I see a man
without a horse, but with a motor driven one man’s plough. The future is
on its way also in this valley. They’re using a washboard down in the
farmyard. The chickens are scratching the earth along the road, a single
dog on a chain is barking. I feel in another time, I’m in China, Hebei
province.
 |
 |
| Ploughing with an obstinate mule | Watchtowers in the distance |
The valley narrows and twists. The mountains arise in all directions.
It looks impossible in front of me. As a miracle the valley turns to the
left and goes on, but much more narrow. It goes on until km 33. Then
it’s over, I see a white spot high up at the opposite mountainside. Try
to ignore it, but deep inside I know, that this small dot tells that
there is the road. It’s a road marker, and that’s where I’m going. From
the start the altimeter shows 930 m. I’ve also felt the road climbing
steadily all day. At first I think I’m up at 1060 m, but then I suddenly
see the road almost disappearing up in the sky. Two fighting trucks with
tiles pass me by. Later when they’ve made a stop I pass them, at 1230
they pass me again. And then, at 1310 m we’re up. There’s a toilet
building and there are the two trucks parked. I have a “conversation”
with the drivers, they have a book of maps of the entire Hebei province.
Only Chinese names, but the towns look more relevant. The town in my map,
I never see, but several appear that SHOULD have been there.
Then down is goes and the road is immediately worse. Rough but with no
holes. Have to use the breaks so that the luggage doesn’t come off. It’s
a cold descent. The distances in the map doesn’t fit. There should at
the most be 50 km, I passed that long ago. I end up at a village street
going to the right. It’s time for lunch. Some girls show me where to
“Chi fan” – eat. Up a stair and along a gallery. There are small rooms
with curtains. I’m shown into one. The curtain is extremely dirty. But
besides it looks OK.
I’m prepared this time. I’ll say chicken meat and point around the menu.
Have found my homemade dictionary and the necessary words. Even though
it goes wrong. They don’t have chicken. Meiyou, have not. It goes on.
They don’t have rice. Then I’ll have something which I think is round
bread. It’s bean sprouts and noodles, but OK. All in all a nice meal,
which I cannot finish. It’s not all of the beef that’s easy to chew.
I’ve looked at the map that there should be parts of the Great Wall
along the road, but if it’s 5, 10 or 20 km away it doesn’t say. I’m a
bit disappointed, specially today. I’ve looked for it in vain and have
long given up. I find a shop to buy water and when I get back there’s a
man I “talk to” a bit. I say Cheng Chang, as is the Chinese name and
point around. Of course it’s there, and he drags me to the other side of
the street and points and really! Just above the roof I can barely see a
watchtower on top of a mountain. I walk another 10 m and see a sight
I’ll never forget. Through the mist all the mountain ridge is filled
with watchtower next to watchtower. It’s a marvellous view, that leaves
tears in my eyes. Something I’ve experienced before. The most unexpected
views are often those that give the strongest impressions.
After having the day saved this way I continue down G108. The mountains
gets lower, but I still have to pass 7-8 lumps before the valley gets
wider. The road starts having certain defects. A restauration is
apparently soon to be. For longer parts the old surface is removed and
it’s like riding a bad dirt road. The dust is thick from the trucks.
Then I arrive at a spot where the road is blocked. They’re building a
new bridge. I quickly realize they won’t finish the first month and
think: What then? When I see a trail disappear down the riverbed to the
right. There’s a chaos as always because everyone wants to cross first,
but I manage to twist through. Then follows more dirt road, where I
literally have to cut through the dust. It must be very fine grains,
because I have no problems with my contact lenses. Then the road is
blocked once more and a longer diversion has been made including a river
passage, where I’m almost forced to remove my shoes and socks, but I
make it, the shoes are waterproof and the water doesn’t reach the edge.
But I’m nearly drowned when a car passes the water at high speed.
Reasonable – but….
I reach the goal of the day Laiyuan, which is the biggest city since the
suburbs of Beijing.
Now the heaters water must be hot, so you’ll have me excused. I’ve
looked at myself in the mirror. There were black stripes on the top of
my head where the openings in the cycling helmet are!