English Version 51
        
        Thursday 22.05.08
        Yangtze River, Wushan
        
        I fell asleep on my back. I can feel in my throat that I`ve been snoring 
        most of the night. I hope Burghard is a good sleeper. I wake up at 5 and 
        just HAVE to look out of the window. There`s a window in my side of the 
        cabin that can open, and I end up sitting watching the day rise over the 
        Yangtze River. A faint sound from the engine but besides it`s so 
        peaceful! You can always sleep. The boat goes slower and stops 
        eventually. There`s a knock at the door at 5.30 and I know what it 
        means, we`re about to arrive at the first gorge. When we try to enter 
        the top deck it`s closed. It costs you to get up there. Now. It didn`t 
        last night. Si shi quai, I can hear her say. 40. I find a hundred note 
        and pay for us both. Especially Burghard who bought the whole packages 
        is upset, but we have to wait with our complaints. It`s too dark for 
        pictures with my camera, so I have to let do with the impressions in my 
        mind. A photo can`t catch all this in the faint light.
        When we complain the guide tells us it`s a kind of deposit. We`ll get 10 
        back when we give back the new plastic card we now wear around our 
        necks. Burghard tells her it will be in the new guide from LP. He knows 
        a German "verlag" that cooperates with them. It`s not her job to 
        understand that sort of things.
        We eat breakfast. I share my supplies with him. I went bananas in the 
        supermarket and filled the extra sport bag I got from the consul. It`s 
        nice I now have someone to share with. He deliver the coffee and some 
        cakes.
        Soon after we`re at 3 lesser Gorges, to which we both bought access and 
        we have to enter another boat and on a 6 hours tour up a minor river. We 
        get a small green ticket, walk through two other boats that`s nearer the 
        boardwalk and changes the little green ticket for a green plastic card 
        and a ticket. I have to give back the plastic card 5 m`s ahead and now 
        I`ve just put it away!
 
Maybe the mountains are not that high here in 3 lesser Gorges, but 
        the river is more narrow and it`s a normal tour boat, where you can look 
        freely in all directions.
        I`m allowed into the cockpit, it`s not that there is more to see from 
        there, but I regard it as a special gesture and think I have to give 
        back something so in poor Chinese I tell about my evacuation from 
        Maoxian and the missing bike. The guide is this time a "pure" Chinese 
        without any English and she`s babbling all the way in a yellow squeaking 
        megaphone.
        When I once more is invited into the cockpit I wonder, until I see a box 
        with the writing: Boatmen`s tip. Aha.. Now we get a new red ticket and 
        the guide confirms what I just wrote: no English. Out in the back a man 
        comes touching my arm and my beard. I think he`s too close, but when I 
        look at the Chinese I can see I`m a bit unusual. And I who`s not that 
        hairy!
We make a stop and walks up to a town where "the old part" apparently 
        has been moved because of the dam. When the dam is finished the level of 
        the water will be 175 m. Now it`s about 150 m I think. Then you don`t 
        have to walk all those stairs as now. We go on and changes once more to 
        a smaller boat in which "natives" take us the last part. The old man in 
        front with the flat Chinese hat is talking and takes to singing once. 
        His voice is fine, I would have liked to have it on tape.
        During the sailing more music is heard from up the rocks, where a man is 
        sitting in a little green cabin playing a horn. The clou is a 4 person 
        quire on another rock and then we`re heading "home".
        When I`m on my bicycle 5 hours of sleep is no problem, but here where 
        I`m inactive the "squeaking yellow megaphone" makes me sleepy. Burghard 
        has gone to sleep long ago. My snoring must have kept him awake.